Whale Sightings - 2008

Tuesday 16th September	I wish for you the experience we had today....all day....Twenty? Twenty five? huge animals...close to the Mt. Martin shore...Southern Rights lying still....coupling...roaring...rolling, lying upside down....standing head down 10 metres below the surface with a tail waving 2 metres above the mirror ocean. Silent, motionless, adolescent whales and calves...slightly distant from the energetic couples, but obviously connected, lay on the surface...unmoving.  One, in a movement defying physics, drove along the surface, making a small wake but not apparently moving a muscle.  We should know - in undeviating purpose it rode it's 'railway track' hear on, towards our drifting boat....one metre away, alongside and past - without a flicker of recognition or acknowledgement of the silent human audience....total hidden purpose.  Rather humbling to be so conscientiously ignored!  At one time - within a 50 metre radius - three pairs of animals coupling in separate pairs around our boat, as if with the intent to have witnesses. Once more, I asked my guests...."would this have been richer had you been on the boat alone?"  They all agreed that the human company enriched the experience. A silent, subdued and contemplative ride home.
Monday 15 September	Eight Southern Rights, mid-bay, off Middleton Beach.  The sea is in turmoil after the storm of the weekend, but the whales party continues to grow in number....and energy....much breaching and surface roaring.
Friday 12 September	Tough weather - tough passengers - all Probus members from Queensland - and tough whales, totally unmindful of the gathering gale.  The animals languished and rolled in each others company - sheltered in the Gull Rock lee shore from the approaching gale.
Thursday 11 September	Very, very strong winds drove a breaking swell into the faces of two Southern Right whales which were effortless in a relentless drive through the chop.  The whales totally unconcerned by the chop breaking against their bodies...and unmindful of our company as we struggled to hold position one hundred metres clear.
Wednesday 10 September	A mother and calf Southern Right staying quiet and inconspicuous in a lonely wilderness beach near Michelmas Island.  A playful calf near a motionless mum.
Monday 8 September	These huge Southern Rights are gathering....a coalescence of holiday makers... all whales and dolphins.  Today, three at Gull Rock and three in the middle of Middleton Bay.
Sunday 7 September	High energy ocean with white caps on a small chop.  We bounced our way to the calm between Michelmas and Breaksea Islands.  Four clever Southern Rights had found the calm too and we enjoyed each others company.
Saturday 6 September	A beautiful sail under overcast skies to visit one lonely whale at beautiful Nanarup Beach.
Tuesday 2 September	Very close to Gull Rock in Tranquil Bay two Southern Right mothers and calves, coming right up to Sail-A-Way...an entranced human audience.
Monday 1 September	The first day of spring!  Four Southern Rights breaching repeatedly, mid Middleton Bay.
Friday 29, Saturday 30 and Sunday 31 August	Twenty knot winds - lines of white caps - wave peaks flattened by downpours of cold rain. The maelstrom between Nanarup and Middleton Beach....eight Southern Rights....uncaring of the cold, the boats and the human watchers.  The whales are languid - no sudden movements - rolling over and around each other, showing tails, heads and flippers....the whales' huge bulk obvious even in the wave chop. 'Sail-A-Way's guests show all the focus of the hunt - the thrill of the successful sighting....then the compassion and regard and, as they so frequently comment...."the feeling of having been privileged". Wilderness and unique challenge....half-an-hour from Albany city's central place.
Tuesday 26 August	Tranquil Bay (Gull Rock Beach) 40 people of all ages, and cultures.  United Nations on the water!  Peace keeping...that works.  Grey sky, grey misting rain all around but just over 'Sail-a-Way' a clear sky....and in the lime green water below, two celebratory Southern Right Whales, utterly careless of Iraq, Afghanistan and other human activities - insane or  otherwise. The whales visited our boat:  bringers of wonder, they rolled and waved and mooched on by.  By consent, we left them alone....sailed to the seals at Breaksea Island; went back in time as, in silence, we sailed listening to the waves turning rocks to sand...marvelled at the Sooty Oyster Catchers intensely-close pairing relationship...then home by 1.30 to enjoy our own.  Bliss!
Saturday 23 August	AT LONG LAST!  the Southern Right whales have reached King George Sound!  Only the first of them - but there are another 600 between Albany and the south Australian border (so the Whale Count announces). That's a lot - compared to last year's - a relief for me because I've been worried about their welfare. Nanarup is where we found three, yesterday - a long way to sail, but who cares, when the coast sail is a gorgeous display of dolphins, seals, albatross and wilderness bathed in sunshine.  All on view today, Saturday.
Monday 18 August	Hooray for 3 beautiful Humpbacks slowly mooching around Ledge Beach on their way towards Middleton Beach....... in the calm before the storm.
Sunday 17 August	The wonderful weather persists.  Many eager passengers out in the sunshine, with hope of seeing whales filling their hearts.  They had a great time with the seals and seabirds and will return free - later - to see some whales.
Saturday 16 August	So many passengers wanting to see whales.  A boat load of beautiful young children with shining morning faces.  Heaps of lazy seals dozing in the sunshine on Breaksea Island.  Sadly, no whales to share the 'out-of- season' warmth.
Friday 15 August	Stunning warm and sunshiny weather, but where are the whales?
Thursday 14 August	A heart-warming little mob of 2 young Humpback calves and 1 adult, slowly moving across the mouth of King George Sound towards Cape Leeuwin....and a kilometre further off shore and abeam, the breathing of other adults - perhaps keeping an eye on them.
Tuesday 12 August	Ledge Beach has been renamed by our solitary English gentleman.  From a past era himself, he was drifting down the emerald green in perfect calm conditions, 20 metres from the sand.  Every curling wavelet was a whisper of the past.  Turning to me, he said "Ledge Beach?  I don't think so.....this is Tranquil Bay".  Beautiful. That was after seeing dolphins play - bashing up schooling fish by leaping bodily into the air to crash, stunningly, back....copying their big cousins (no doubt)....the 3 Humpbacks that we joined company with off Bald Head.
Saturday 9 August	I stood beside the gangplank, in the rain, shaking hands with 29 guests, all different ages, as they passed by me - all smiling - all exchanging wishes and chatting.  We hadn't seen any whales.  Dolphins....yes, Seals....yes - but only one fleeting blow far away, for the 2nd day in a row.  So why were they happy? This time, not because of my boat but rather the other whale watching vessel.  In a rough sea, Silver Star came powering up, crew pointing to behind Breaksea Island.  Gratefully we had powered ourselves into terribly bouncy seas - searching....unsuccessfully.  So why were they happy?  Well, we'd had a good time - a rough time - and out in the ocean, somebody cared enough about them to point the way and give them a chance. They left my boat smiling about Albany's generosity.....and they all had a free ticket to return. Good for Albany.....good for humanity....good for me.
Thursday 7 August	Wonderful sightings with adult Humpbacks near Breaksea Island and off Bald Head.  Even nicer under sail, as we returned....dolphins at play 50 metres in front....then, as we got closer...drifting....the 40-ton whale surfaced beside the fragile young calf we mistook for a dolphin.  Silently, we sat, as she drifted by, 10 metres from our boat.  Ebony mother elegance.
Wednesday 6 August	A mother Humpback with new calf, off Limestone Head....She may be there for a while.
Tuesday 5 August	Rain! Rain! Rain!  Warm galley; soaking deck; cold captain.....but all warmed by the 5 Humpbacks we saw in the turbulence and rolling swells.
Saturday 2 August	Modern cameras steady the boat's shake...focus automatically....get the light right...and all the camera operator has to do is be there....on the ocean....in Albany.....while the 'freight train flies'! Ocean!! Freight train???  One of my guest's relatives in America received a photo of the Humpback in the air, from his son and daughter-in-law.  American Gary Bowman's response...'its a flying freight train'!! The modern camera - in the hands of an adventurer...took a series of photos, capturing the whale's airborne antics. Adventurer?....Absolutely!   Worth it?....Absolutely.  That was Monday 28th Tuesday 29th        Two whales Wednesday30th         Too windy Thursday 31st        Too stormy Friday 1st        Two Humpbacks Saturday 2nd        Too windy to be fun PS  Thank you Geoff and Michelle....we're adding your photos to our amazing guest's gallery. PPs  Geoff is a fine musician and works at Megamusic, Myaree.  If you happen to be in Perth browsing the music give him our regards.
Saturday 26 July	The making of a promise.  A beautiful day, one angry grandmother from India, standing, furious, after the Albany Whale Tour.  2.30 pm - five hours of looking - beautiful Albany, sleeping before the storm.  Five hours but not one whale.  Languid beaches, a full boat but whales elusive....and the promise.  She was flying back to India the next day and could not take the 'free return' offer.  She wanted recompense, so I promised....'tomorrow, the first whale I see I'll tell of your attitude'.....A big smile and she climbed in the car - her children laughingly relieved. So today, absent Indian grandmother, we kept our promise.  24 guests stood in the storm, on the front of 'Sail-A-Way' and two beautifully playful Southern Rights were astonished to hear a shout from 26 human throats..."You bastards....you were supposed to be here yesterday!".....
Wednesday 23 July	We've been slow to talk of the whales lately....coping with the storms...but on Sunday 20th, 4 Humpbacks out by Breaksea Island.  Monday 21st, one juvenile near Goode Beach, but we never got close.  Then Tuesday 22nd...BINGO! Determined, we sailed around to Bald Head.  Four Humpbacks travelling very quickly...fun but exhausting.  Then the payoff for determination:  on the way home, four more Humpbacks decided we were the perfect audience for a whale ballet.  Fabulous breaches - (check our website:  we hope to have some photos sent to us from some the guests aboard who were snapping away) -  tail wagging and thunderous slaps from cupped tails....and all immediately in front of "Sail-A-Way".
Thursday 17 July	Town watchers would have spotted the two Southern Rights first....floating towards the rocks of Marine Drive....lolling and splashing in a desultory way. We were to join them - floating on the far side of the whales so as not to block the view from Marine Drive. Earlier, five Humpbacks heading to the tropics gave Whale World and Ledge Beach watchers payback for their patience. Albany at it's winter best!
Wednesday 16 July	Twenty five people - six families - on Sail-A-Way, floating in Seal Cove beside 50 metre black cliffs; seals all round. Suddenly the air exploded in a thunderous clap followed by tearing lighting.  Three seconds later, a deluge of hail that levelled all waves and in the deluge, close by, a silent surfacing of the smallest humpback calf any of us have ever seen.  Beside the calf - for a moment...... it's mother. Then, she disappeared, not to show herself again, but the calf lay on the water surface - the only sign of life....gentle breathing.  We think the mother was supporting the calf on her back as it got used to life. Nature's tumult - natures tenderness....all in the one cove.
Monday 14 July	Hullo.  That wonderful time of year; the Southern Rights are BACK.  Three off Limestone Head - playing like a basket of puppies - flippers in the air - roll over, show the tail and wriggle it about....Lovely. Then my guests voted to move on - adventurers all - and, off Bald Head, 8 Humpbacks tail-waving.  Their tails are so distinctive, beautiful black and white, gleaming gold on the edges, in the sunlight.  Put that against emerald green waters and it is no wonder even reserved people sigh aloud! As the Humpbacks sink head-first, their tails seem to stop for a minute, before sliding out of sight - always leaving behind....regret.
Sunday 13th July	What a relief!  The Humpbacks are creeping closer to Albany's beach and shore vantage points. I'm never going to describe Bald Head beauty walk as 'tough' again.  A phone call from Douglas and his family (one member 5 years-old) walked there and revelled in the sunshine and glorious whales.  They were watching 8 to 10 Humpbacks cavorting closer and closer from Breaksea Island to Limestone Head. They could see the two whale-watching boats plying their customers' pleasure....the sparkling water.....tranquility.   I will share the family's company tomorrow, as they leave their 'eagles' path to come down to whale level with us. Many of the whales came close to 'Sail-A-Way' today...."keeping an eye on us".
Saturday 12 July	More stormy weather - way too rough to go out.  Spent the morning cleaning up the debris and seaweed blown on to 'Sail-A-Way'.  Maybe tomorrow.
Friday 11 July	What a storm!!!! Doesn't wild energy bring out wonderful things in people! Too wild to go out.  Our sail had torn loose and in the 110 km winds, was shredding itself with shuddering shakes and whip-crack thundering...      There was Jane - young woman, clothes stuck to her back...pelting rain, knife-like spray...working with Tony to subdue the tempests effects...and smiling.  And Tony, smiling....the anxious phone calls; and passing onlookers, leaping to help....and smiling. Such a great feeling to join a team....face the elements and feel the vigour again. Earth gets a shake-up; the beaches stirred; and sky a river of clouds. What do whales do?  Haven't a clue, but we'll go to try to find them, Sunday. Cheers, and thank you to all.
Thursday 10 July	A glorious whale watching trip in that storm!  Thirty people chatting and supporting each other.  Rough?....Absolutely!  Cold?   To the Toes!....but each had something in common.  The old, the young, the weak, the strong...love adventure and love wilderness. We did see one jump of a whale and a blow...far, far away. We flew home with the wind in our sails - all to come again free.  I look forward to seeing them.
Tuesday 8 July	Hullo.  Beautiful skies yesterday.  Wind, but sail boats love it.  A full sail steadies the boat and reduces our transport carbon footprint by about 40%....win-win-win. And while we're on the w's...Whales:  two courting Humpbacks yesterday, to our delight. Cheers, John, Les, Tony and Jane.  (our crew - lots of 'em to care for lots of people). Now about today's trip.  On 'Sail-A-Way's' flat cabin roof, sometimes 6.....sometimes 8 young children.  Excited faces - clear eyes - hoods - fur-lined coats, and everywhere....smiles! No whales in the Sound; no whales off Breaksea Island; still the smiles; the fathers' hugs; the wonderful families....Then, in the still rolling swells of the Southern Ocean, between Bald Head around towards the Gap:  whale after whale.  Cries of joy with each tail wave. Steaming sausage rolls, baked quiches, hot coffees....our breath showing steam.  Then home with hot scones and still back by 10 minutes past 1 - what an adventure" Thank you, Tony, Jane and Stephan, for looking after 'Sail-A-Way's' 30 guests.  Oh yes, and thank YOU, Humpbacks.
Monday 7 July	Last night two Southern Rights, courting and displaying at the foot of Marine Drive (which other town has such a spectacular whale watching platform?)  I hope to find them today, as I write before going to ride on King George Sound's glory. Yesterday "not going home till we find them" paid off. 2pm, and our third foray deep into the sound...a whale, headed towards Middleton Beach.  We sat still, as 20 dolphins (my guests counted them) came to play with the whale.  In slow motion they oiled around each other....till, eventually, they were beside our boat.  My guests were beside themselves! It didn't matter where we looked - animals were alongside, practising Tai Chi.  In the area of two Wimbledon centre courts -  five species of life playing together....Seagulls, Dolphins, Whales, Southern Gannets and Humans.  Cheers, John
Friday 4 July	Too long - but what a view!....... Whales have the biggest genitalia of any animal that has ever lived on earth...they need this extraordinary investment of life energy because salt water is poisonous to mammal's sperm. Very inconvenient if you live in the ocean.....but I'm referring here, to Friday's tour by Albany Whale tours, as being too long. Five nautical miles off Breaksea, towards Antarctica, sitting on a swelling ocean under lowering clouds, we waited.....and waited....and every time I asked my 15 passengers if we should go home, they wanted to wait longer......even the lady sick... And eventually they saw 6 Humpback whales coming closer and closer...then at the boat, checking us out. We'd filled the guests' stomachs too much with sausage rolls and hot food....they weren't hungry and they intended to see the whales. One and a half hours late, we headed for home.  They said....'there's some more whales'...I said....'sorry, we're going home'..... We parted friends, and all self-congratulatory.
Thursday 3rd July	Sorry, land lubbers; the whales are way out deep, but there are heaps of them.  Eight on this occasion - snorting and blowing to each other.  Soon our boat was surrounded.      The circle got smaller....they came closer     They were under 'Sail-A-Way'........beside 'Sail-A-Way'     In the front......guests galloping one side to the other; front to back...trying to have eyes in the backs of their heads....     Look one way....then a loud snort - behind - enought to startle.... Two guests said...."We've been all round Australia but this is the best1" Another...."This is the highlight of our (international) holiday!" Another..."How much is land in Albany?"
Wednesday 2nd July	Ten whales, all Humpbacks, and this time, Tuesday's lonely one brought company......four hung around our boat for a long time.
Tuesday 1 July	Out by Bald Head, one young Humpback stayed close to the boat - he must have missed us.  Then he/she rolled on his back, flippers held up ....the picture of a lost puppy.  We felt guilty leaving him.
Monday 30 June	The ocean was bearable - but no bears.  People sat in their caves, recovering.
Sunday 29 June	More gale force winds - no cruise
Saturday 28 June	Gale force winds - we didn't care - because two whales were tail waving....slapping the water with thunderous slaps....  Then with most extravagant elegance, a 40-ton vertical leap...at the apex of its leap the creature was 80 percent clear of the water....then it twisted and pivoted through 270 degrees to thunder back into the ocean. Driving rain; white salt-laden foam blown horizontally; the tour's ten guests were saturated, but unwilling to retreat to cabin's shelter.  Their cameras had captured unbelievable wild extravagance:  the long trip back from Breaksea Island; a trip of smiles and chatter. Four pm:  'Sail-A-Way" reached port and the storm had cleared. Too mean a description to say the whales were courting.  Better ....Thomas Parke D'Invilliers words...     Then wear the gold hat, if that will move her;             If you can bounce high, bounce for her too,     Till she cry..'Lover..., gold-hatted, high-bouncing lover,             I must have you!'
Thursday 26 June	Cold Antarctic air collides with that of our temperate latitudes - the energetic heat exchange making fronts with sweeping rain and winds that periodically lash our world's corner. The last one stirred much tumult along King George Sound's southern shore and in the narrow strip of water between Little Grove, Big Grove, Bald Head and Breaksea Island peninsula, the whales love it!  Or seem to:  they often appear to prefer that high energy opportunity. On Wednesday 25th; 80 kilometre winds kept us all ashore - wishing....but the day after, 'Sail-A-Way' rode the smooth hills of water, rolling in to burst against Albany's ebony coastal cliffs. As we accelerated up the face to surf, smoothly, the slopes, there were exultant whoops from all our guests sitting across the boat's bows.  It was almost disappointing for them, when we stopped, but the two whales that popped up 20 metres from the bows made disappointment dispel.  With two more whales off to our port side - all just loafing around - all species enriched sharing the swells. Albatross and Southern Gannet profited from the pressure ridge in front of each swell - no flapping of wings necessary.  We profited from their company.
Tuesday 24 June	What a wonderful sight Albany is, as a storm gathers. Mounts Clarence and Melville have swirling, torn, cloud-hats of grey and white.  The storm sky starts in streaks of mackerel scales....then with the heavy horseshoe-shaped purple line of clouds, came wind gusts of 60 to 80 kilometres an hour. From the northwest, these winds had no time to build heavy waves - so, caught at Michaelmas, we had the pleasure of watching albany engulfed by storm as we powered sail down towards Gull Rock. The sky cleared as we sidled along Ledge Beach in absolute calm.  Then home.  Late, but exhilarated.  No whales, but much wonder.
Monday 23 June	Out by the islands of Albany, the water was a little choppy - but as we rounded Bald Head and the Southern Ocean opened towards Antarctica the swells were smooth and rounded.....except for the one amazing white of a Humpback's explosive breach. We drifted towards the Gap with an adult and calf Humpback.  Our return to shore was late but nobody cared. My day was made by squeals of delight from our 5 German children as they saw each surfacing and 'tail stand'....then their Aunty's remarks that this trip was the reason of importance for the children's visit to Australia.
Sunday 22 June	Long trip out....long trip back....but nobody cares when 3 whales are found and the sails reduce the carbon cost to earth. We slowed down and 'smelled the roses' at Ledge Beach....mooching along 20 metres from shore on wilderness water sheltered from the offshore wind.
Saturday 21 June	Hullo.  Twenty-first June - one day before the winter solstice.  Humpbacks are arriving in Albany in a steady stream.  Today - one humpback with many white spots on its back -  hung about 'Sail-A-Way', coming close enough to thrill us all with its unafraid and curious attitude. On Breaksea Island the seals are building in large numbers as the breeding season begins, and large pods of the common dolphin played alongside as we sailed to and from the islands. Even the birds were making the most of the weather as Shearwaters, Southern Gannets and Albatross rode the wind generated by the rolling swells. Above Breaksea Island...a White Breasted Sea Eagle effortlessly suspended on a one-and-a-half metre wing span... While we entered the channel, a seal posturing on Whalehead Rock was overseen by an osprey, nesting once more on the woodchips gantry. What a feast! PS.  Six of our guests today were returns from two days earlier - the only time we haven't seen whales this season.  Their decision to stay longer and try again has been a win/win......for them and for Albany.  They left very happy.
Friday 20 June	Today we have seen our first Humpback calf of the season.  Both whale watching vessels were very circumspect as we watched the mother's care and calf's carelessness.  Much surface splashing and 'larking about'. Visitors to Whale World and Goode Beach-walkers would also have had a great chance to enjoy, as the whales made a bee line in steady swim towards Whale World...turning 200 metres from the beach to cruise towards the islands and Bald Head
Thursday 18 June	Two days of gales.  We were tending our boat at 8pm:  the wind was blowing us off our feet while the water, snatched from the harbour, blew in horizontal sheets. At Princess Royal Sailing Club, the jetties were full of "boat people" - refugees from the wind. Today, what a contrast:  still-chopped seas slowing down and settling, while off Michelmas Island, 6 Humpbacks played.  Sail-A-Way carried 19 guests - all friends celebrating a party by journey's end.  Back at 1.15 pm ....late but feeling well fed.
Saturday 14 June	It was all a bit odd really....Australia's National Whale Day.  I wanted to show support but was struggling to make sense of it.  Anyway, we thought we'd do what we could and we took 'Sail-A-Way' - repaired, refurbished and revitalised - for a celebratory presence near the beach ceremony. We'd offered a free trip to anyone who would like to be on the water and join in the celebration of what a feast whale watching along the south coast is. It was a beautiful day; bright sunlight and Ellen Cove's marvellous clear waters, accentuated.  On the beach, flags fluttered and people milled about.  Then some left and climbed on their surfboards.  They paddled out to sea and made a circle; everything was quiet.  There was a shout as wreaths were thrown into the circle of water enclosed by the surfers.  Then a sparkling flash of colour as the surfers splashed water into the air, making a droplet cloud. People on my boat were silent and I started to feel a bit heavy....wondering how many of the lovely creatures I had seen last year would have survived the barbarous hunting practices conducted just over the horizon, out of sight. I began to feel glad that we celebrated whales nationally and with thoughts of the many hours I had rejoiced with other humans as whales came up close to be with us on the water.  We raised a hot cuppa in a toast to absent friends. But what made it odd was some splashing way off in the distance towards Skippy Reef.  It looked very similar to what the humans had been doing on their boards.  At first, I thought it was a boat conducting its own ceremony, but we went to check it out. Birds?...the southern Gannets are back...No....Dolphins?...there seemed to be a fin there and there....No...then, imagine my amazement....four Humpbacks.  Milling...splashing...What a coincidence.  Two of them suddenly left the mob and ranged left and right of our boat - abeam on each side and drifting with us at about 3 knots.  They held station there for what must have been 15 or 20 minutes, then as abruptly, they left....within a few minutes, rejoining the other two....still milling about in, apparently, aimless 'mucking about'.  What a wonderful coincidence?  As I said to my amazed guests...life brings its little gifts! I've always felt powerless to change national directions and strategies, but I really appreciate the energy local people in Albany have used; their humanity of spirit and their 'spitting into the wind', as they organised Albany's whale season opening day.  I remembered, in mute self-rebuke, Dylan Thomas' wonderful lines...... "Go not meekly into that dark night.  Rage, rage against the dying of the light"
June 2008	....and so a new whale migration season begins!